四川省传统名菜之一麻婆豆腐

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  麻婆豆腐始创于清朝同治元年(1862年),开创于成都外北万福桥边。由于陈麻婆豆腐历代传人的不断努力,陈麻婆川菜馆虽距今一百四十余年盛名长盛不衰。并扬名海内外,深得国内外美食者好评。麻婆豆腐也成为了具有四川代表性的名菜,麻婆豆腐是四川省汉族传统名菜之一,属于川菜系。主要原料为配料和豆腐,材料主要有豆腐、牛肉末(也可以用猪肉)、辣椒和花椒等。麻来自花椒,辣来自辣椒,这道菜突出了川菜“麻辣”的特点。此菜大约在清代同治初年(1874年以后),由成都市北郊万福桥一家名为“陈兴盛饭铺”的小饭店老板娘陈刘氏所创。因为陈刘氏脸上有麻点,人称陈麻婆,她发明的烧豆腐就被称为“陈麻婆豆腐”。

  《锦城竹枝词》、《芙蓉话旧录》等书对陈麻婆创制麻婆豆腐的历史均有记述。《锦城竹枝词》云:“麻婆陈氏尚传名,豆腐烘来味最精,万福桥边帘影动,合沽春酒醉先生”。《成都通览》记载陈麻婆豆腐在清朝末年便被例为成都著名食品。

  麻婆豆腐广受欢迎,流传各地,做法也有许多不同。最大的改变之一,是“陈兴盛饭铺”自己所调整,亦即将材料的牛肉改为猪肉,以便不吃牛肉的食客也能品尝。该店后来又改回用牛肉,但以猪肉为料的作法也已广为各地厨师和食客接受;其次则是增加了豆瓣酱。

  早期的麻婆豆腐用料是菜油和黄牛肉。烹饪手法是先在锅中将一大勺菜油煎熟,然后放一大把辣椒末,接着下牛肉,煮到干酥烂时再下豆豉。之后放入豆腐,稍微加水并铲几下调匀,最后盖上锅盖用小火将汤汁收干,起锅前再洒上花椒末。

  二十世纪六十年代,制作麻婆豆腐时,油必用花生油,肉则不拘牛猪。肉炒熟后,加入豆瓣酱、豆豉、红椒粉、酱油、盐、糖,爆香后再加入豆腐片、高汤,滚煮后加入葱、姜、蒜,以水调太白粉勾芡,起锅前加花椒粉和麻油。作料与程序已有些变化,口味强调麻、辣、烫、咸。

  麻婆豆腐的特色在于麻、辣、烫、香、酥、嫩、鲜、活八字,也称之为八字箴言。

  麻:指豆腐在起锅时,要洒上适量的花椒末。花椒最好用汉源贡椒,麻味纯正,沁人心脾。 如若别地花椒,麻味卡喉,令人气紧。

  辣: 选用龙潭寺大红袍油椒制作豆瓣,剁细炼熟,加以少量熟油、海椒烹脍豆腐,又辣又香。

  烫:豆腐的特质保持了整道菜出锅后的温度,不容易冷却。每下一次筷子,吃到的都是刚出炉的味道。

  香:起锅立即上桌,闻不到制豆腐的石膏味,可冷浸豆腐的水锈味,也没有各色佐料原有的难闻气味,只有勾起食欲的香味。

  酥: 炼好的肉馅子,色泽金黄,红酥不板,一颗颗,一粒粒,入口就酥,沾牙就化。

  鲜: 麻婆豆腐的原料,俱皆新鲜,鲜嫩翠绿,红白相宜,色味俱鲜,无可挑剔。

  活:指麻婆豆腐店的一项绝技:豆腐上桌,寸把长的蒜苗,在碗内根根直立,翠绿湛兰,油泽甚艳,仿佛刚从畦地采摘切碎,活灵活现,但夹之入口,俱皆熟透,毫无生涩味道。

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  -1?(i=new c({o:sso,m:logout},{jsonp:func},!0),s.push(i.get(i.getDomainApi(t)))):r(i=new c({o:sso,m:logout},{jsonp:func}),s.push(i.get(i.getDomainApi(t))))}),u(),a.when.apply(a,s)},fillProfile:function(e,t,n,i,s){return i=in,(new c({o:User,m:perfectInfo,crumb:e,userName:t,captcha:s,password:r(n),rePassword:r(i)},{},!0)).post().done(function(){u()})},perfectMobile:function(e,t,n,i){return(new c({o:user,m:perfectMobile,crumb:e,mobile:t,password:r(n),rePassword:r(n),smscode:i},{})).post()},checkQrCodeSignInStatus:function(){return(new c({o:sso,m:qrLogin},{jsonp:func})).get()},getAuthenticationStatus:function(e){return(new c({o:User,m:getShiMingStatus,crumb:e})).get()},submitAuthenMobile:function(e,t,n){return(new c({o:User,m:verifyShiMingCaptcha,mobile:e,captcha:t,crumb:n},{},!0)).post()},fillAuthenInfo:function(e,t,n){return(new c({o:User,m:verifyShiMingSmsCode,vt:e,vc:t,crumb:n},{},!0)).post()},authSendSmsToken:function(e,t){return(new c({o:User,m:sendShiMingSmsCode,crumb:e,vt:t},{},!0)).post()}};var p={};a.each(e.sync,function(t,n){var r=function(){var r=arguments[0],i=t+(a.isPlainObject(r)?e.utils.JSON.stringify(r):[].join.apply(arguments)),s=p[i];return s?p[i]:(s=p[i]=n.apply(e.sync,arguments),s.always(function(){delete p[i]}),s)};r.funcName=n.funcName=sync.+t,e.sync[t]=r})}(QHPass),function(e){use strict;var t=e.$,n={charset:document.charsetdocument.defaultCharsetdocument.characterSetUTF-8,domainList:[360pay.cn,so.com,haosou.com,360.cn,360.com,qiku.com,360shouji.com],protocol:location.protocol.replace(:,),proxy:location.protocol+//+location.host+/psp_jump.html,ignoreCookie:!1};e.getConfig=function(e,r){r=void 0!==r?r:null;for(var i,s=n,o=e.split(.);o.length0;)if(i=o.shift(),0!=i.length){if(void 0===s[i]o.length>

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